Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Welt Pocket tutorial

I love sewing welt pockets since the first time I sewn one. I was always a bit scared of trying them but it turned out that they really are not hard and after practice they are quite easy and so satisfying to sew as well. I thought I would share a little photo how-to tutorial in hopes of making it a bit easier for others to learn how to sew these amazing pockets as well.  

Let's get started! First you transfer your marking for the welt pocket placement on your pattern pieces. I draw a rectangle on the back side of the vest and on the front side I place a dot on each corner.  (these marking make it a lot easier when it comes to pinning and sewing later)

Now transfer the same marking onto the two top pieces of the welt bag pattern pieces.  (rectangle on the back and the dots four corner on the front)  Then on the four pieces cut interfacings transfer the rectangle as well.

At this point iron on the cut interfacings to the wrong side of the pattern pieces, matching up the rectangle boxes that you transferred form the pattern. (I used the Dapper Lad pattern but the same goes for the Jack Frost knickers or the Celebration Chinos patterns as well)

Next on all four welt pocket bag pattern pieces finish the edges. I serged mine but you can narrow hem them as well.  

Now remember those dots on the front of the pattern pieces? Match those up so that both right sides are facing each others so that each dot matches together. Pin these pieces together in place. Then, sewing on the side with the welt bag on the wrong side; stitch the two long parole lines,  locking the stitches at starting of the line and locking them again at the end of each line. (see Picture just below this one)  

You can see the sewn lines in this picture better. I drew a the cut lines but you don't have to do this part. Cut the center with the rotor cutter and ruler and then trim the "triangle" at the ends with the scissors.

Be careful when trimming with the scissors to cut to the stitching but not into the stitching. This will make for a nice and neat corner when turned.  

Turn the welt back to the wrong side of the vest and press.

Now press the bottom side of the welt pocket up towards the top.

Refold the topside of the bottom back down again at the opening of the pocket on the front side to create a new fold and press. This is what the back side looks like...

and this is what the front side looks like at this piont.

Now we are going to stich the pocket into place to the front of the vest. Working from the font side of vest (or pants) stitch right down the side as close as you can to the vest itself right over the triangle. There is a mark from where you have transferred from before so you will be stitching right on this line. (just stich over this line only as well and not down the entire pocket pieces.


The stitching will go right through the back layers but not the front. 

It makes for a nice and tidy front finish. :-)

Now pin and sew the pocket back to the front with right sides together at the top.

Press this two seams open, then pull the bottom of the pocket pieces together and pin then sew then togehter.

Then press the two pocket pieces into place then pin and stitch the sides closed. 

Flip over and admire you pocket!

This vest is for Prince C as you already figures out I am sure. It's for his Valentine's Day outfit. You'll just have to wait to see the entire outfit but it's coming together pretty cute so far!

Happy Sewing!!